We finally end up at some random hostel on the Pacific coast. The owner, Nate, was a huge weirdo who kept accusing us of breaking beer bottles on the beach... don't know what his problem was, I don't think I saw him smile once. The surf on the other hand was big and glorious. Perfect for two beginner surfers... oh wait, the exact opposite.
Long story short, we realized that surfing is really hard and painful at times... if any of you know what a beach break is then you can only imagine what we went through. And I guess in the nut shell this story highlights who I am pretty well.
I like a sense of adventure, going into the unknown, trying new things and interacting with random people (Nate).